Poem

Sun-dance Surf Break

Running down soft maroon coloured sand.
Lucid sun rising slowly over the horizon.
I jump over sharp obsidian rocks, mussels piercing my skin.
Light blue water reflecting the almost blinding sun into my eyes.
I paddle further out to sea,
arms thrashing to fight the push of the waves,
trying to take me back to shore.
I paddle past the break.
Relief floods my tired body.

I sit and watch the sun rising
higher and higher into the sky like a lost kite.
I see a swell growing in the distance.
It comes closer and closer,
like gigantic turtles rushing towards me.

I paddle
the lip of the wave lifts me up
towards soaring gulls above me.
I turn
slicing the roaring, thundering rush of water
filled with immense power
beneath me.
I pull off the wave
getting small air
as I soar over the top of its large body.
I paddle back out towards the break.
My mates are running down the beach behind me.
Today is gonna be a good day.

Miko Ginivan-Barrow